Frequently Asked Questions

Coverage depends on the product and the density, age, condition, and porosity of the wood.

• DECK*1 COAT: Approximately 150–175 square feet per gallon
• LOG*1 COAT: Approximately 150–175 square feet per gallon
• THERMAL*1 COAT: Approximately 800–1,200+ square feet per gallon

Older, weathered, or more porous wood will generally absorb more product and may reduce the total coverage.

No. Sundance Stain Sealers create a natural, rich wood finish that highlights the grain without leaving a shiny, glossy, or plastic-looking surface.

Because our stain sealers are non-film-forming, they penetrate the wood instead of creating a hardened film over the surface.

Want to learn more? Click here to read our “Blinded by the Light” blog post to learn why a sheen-free finish is better for your wood.

Sundance Stain Sealers are craft-blended architectural coatings made with non-organic long-oil alkyd resins, refined mineral oils, and enhanced pigments.

Our penetrating formulas replenish and condition the wood fibers from within while helping protect the wood against water and UV-related degradation. Because the products are non-film-forming, they will not create a surface layer that cracks, peels, or flakes.

Yes. Our products are formulated to comply with applicable U.S. VOC regulations.

• DECK*1 COAT: Less than 100 grams per liter
• LOG*1 COAT: Less than 100 grams per liter
• THERMAL*1 COAT: Less than 250 grams per liter

Always review the appropriate Product Data Sheet and Safety Data Sheet for complete product and safety information.

No. DECK*1 COAT and LOG*1 COAT are formulated for porous exterior woods such as pressure-treated lumber, pine, cedar, redwood, and logs. Dense woods such as Ipe and Thermally Modified Wood may not allow these formulas to penetrate properly.

Use THERMAL*1 COAT for Ipe, other dense exotic hardwoods, and Thermally Modified Wood used for siding, cladding, or decking.

Click here to check out the THERMAL*1 COAT product page.

Our stain sealers include a 100% quality guarantee. If you experience a quality issue with one of our products, contact us directly and we will work with you to resolve the problem. When warranted, this may include a full refund.

Your satisfaction and the performance of our products are important to us.

Yes. Sundance Stain Sealers can be applied to both new and weathered wood once the surface is sufficiently porous.

Use the Cup of Water Test to check the wood. Pour a small amount of water onto the surface:

• If the water absorbs into the wood, it is porous and ready to be prepared and stained.
• If the water beads on the surface, the wood is not ready and should be given more time to weather.

Depending on the wood, climate, and exposure, this may take anywhere from a few months to six months or longer. Do not wait so long that the untreated wood begins experiencing significant UV damage, checking, cupping, or water-related deterioration.

Yes, but the surface must be able to absorb the product. The necessary preparation depends on the existing finish:

• Oil-based penetrating stains: Remaining traces may be acceptable after thorough cleaning, especially when choosing a Sundance wood tone in a similar color range.
• Linseed or tung-oil finishes: Shiny, hardened, or patchy remnants should be removed through sanding or stripping if cleaning does not remove them.
• Water-based semi-transparent stains: Weathered remnants may be removed through proper cleaning and pressure washing. Any remaining film or sheen must be removed.
• Solid acrylic stains or paints: These finishes are incompatible with a penetrating stain sealer and must be completely removed before applying a Sundance product.

If you do not know what was previously applied or whether the surface is sufficiently porous, contact Sundance Coatings before proceeding.

Sundance Stain Sealers penetrate into the wood instead of forming a film on top. Proper preparation removes dirt, oxidation, mill glaze, contaminants, and incompatible finishes that could prevent absorption.

A wood cleaner containing sodium percarbonate, also known as oxygen bleach, is recommended for general cleaning. TSP may also be used as directed. Apply the cleaning solution with a garden pump sprayer, scrub the surface with a deck brush, and rinse the wood and surrounding areas thoroughly.

Oxalic acid may be used to remove tannin discoloration from woods such as cedar and redwood. It is also commonly used to neutralize and restore the wood’s pH after chemical stripping.

Avoid regular chlorine bleach unless severe mold requires treatment. Sodium hydroxide is a powerful chemical stripper and should not be used as a routine wood cleaner because it can damage and fuzz the wood fibers.

Always follow the chemical manufacturer’s directions and safety precautions.

Use a white 40-degree fan tip and maintain enough distance to clean the wood without cutting, gouging, or leaving visible pressure marks. A distance of approximately 6 to 10 inches may be appropriate, but softer wood may require greater distance or lower pressure.

Move the wand continuously in smooth, overlapping passes following the direction of the wood grain. Begin moving before directing the spray onto the target area, and lift away at the end of each pass.

Never stop or hold the spray in one place. Test the technique on a small, inconspicuous area first and adjust the distance and pressure as needed for the wood species and condition.

The best method depends on the type and condition of the existing finish. Chemical stripping may remove some oil-based finishes, but water-based and acrylic coatings can be much more difficult to strip completely.

Many chemical strippers contain sodium hydroxide, which can damage or fuzz the wood fibers and must be followed by proper rinsing and neutralization with oxalic acid. Sanding is often preferred because chemical stripping may still need to be followed by sanding.

Removing an old finish can be difficult and potentially hazardous. Consider hiring an experienced wood-restoration professional, especially when dealing with an unknown, solid, or heavily built-up coating.

Not always. If proper cleaning leaves the wood clean, porous, and free of shiny, slick, or film-forming remnants, Sundance Stain Sealers can be applied without sanding.

Sand any areas that retain an incompatible finish, severe discoloration, heavy drips, or uneven patches. If sanding is needed, use an orbital sander with approximately 80-grit sandpaper. Avoid belt sanders, which can quickly gouge the wood.

When removing manufacturer stamps, avoid concentrating too heavily on one spot. Over-sanding can create a lighter area that remains visible after staining.

Normally, no. Once the previous incompatible finish has been removed and a Sundance Stain Sealer has been applied correctly, future maintenance is much easier.

Because Sundance products are non-film-forming, they will not create a surface layer that cracks, peels, or flakes. When it is time to refresh the finish, the wood will generally only require proper cleaning and a light reapplication. Any remaining Sundance product will blend with the new application without requiring routine stripping, sanding, or media blasting.

The best applicator depends on the product and surface:

For DECK*1 COAT and LOG*1 COAT:

• Use a high-quality China bristle brush for hand application.
• Use a pole brush to work product between deck boards before coating the flat surfaces.
• Use a plush ¾-inch to 1-inch roller cover for large areas. A Purdy Colossus roller is recommended.
• Use a 4-to-6-inch mini roller or wool painter’s mitt for spindles and other vertical elements.

For THERMAL*1 COAT:

• Use a lambswool deck pad or mitt, short-pile mini roller, foam applicator, or airless sprayer.
• Apply only a thin, light coat and wipe away any product that does not penetrate within approximately 5 to 10 minutes.

When spraying any Sundance product, apply enough product to achieve proper penetration and immediately back-brush or back-roll the surface. Avoid rolling too quickly, which can cause splattering.

Place plastic sheeting or tarps beneath and around the work area to catch drips and overspray.

When working near a house, cover nearby brick, stone, siding, painted walls, windows, and other surfaces with secured plastic sheeting. One-to-two-mil plastic can be taped, clipped, or stapled into place where appropriate.

Cover nearby plants when spraying, but remove the coverings promptly after application. Plastic left over plants in direct sunlight can trap heat and damage them.

Complete the vertical surfaces first, including railings, spindles, posts, fences, and other upright elements. Save the horizontal deck boards and other flat walking surfaces for last.

Working in this order prevents drips from landing on a completed deck floor and allows you to move around the project more easily.

No. Sundance Stain Sealers are designed for a single-application process. Apply the correct amount during the initial application and do not add a second coat for additional color or protection.

Excess product that cannot penetrate the wood may remain on the surface and create sticky areas, unevenness, or tracking.

For DECK*1 COAT and LOG*1 COAT, apply one generous coat to fully saturate the porous wood. THERMAL*1 COAT requires one thin, light coat because dense hardwoods and Thermally Modified Wood absorb considerably less product.

For porous wood treated with DECK*1 COAT, apply one generous, even application that thoroughly saturates the wood. The surface may initially appear darker and more opaque, but it will become semi-transparent as the product penetrates and begins curing.

Allow the product to soak into the wood. After approximately one hour, back-roll the entire surface without adding more product. This final pass evens out the application and removes footprints or roller inconsistencies.

Wipe away puddles or excess product, particularly near the house, in shaded areas, or anywhere the wood absorbs more slowly. Do not allow unabsorbed product to remain on the surface.

For dense hardwood or Thermally Modified Wood decks, follow the lighter application instructions provided for THERMAL*1 COAT.

Covered and enclosed areas: Wood beneath a roof receives less sunlight and airflow and may absorb product more slowly. Apply less product than you would on a fully exposed surface. Wipe away any excess that remains wet or has not penetrated.

Log homes: Choose caulk or chinking that closely matches or is slightly darker than the expected cured wood tone. For best results, complete caulking before staining. If caulking afterward, allow the stain sealer to dry completely first.

Avoid filling small hairline checks unnecessarily. Acrylic caulk in these areas may remain visible through a semi-transparent finish.

Remove the plastic tear tab around the metal lid, then carefully work the lid loose. The lids fit tightly to help prevent spills if a container is knocked over.

Before every application, stir the product thoroughly from the bottom of the container to evenly redistribute any settled pigments. Continue stirring periodically during use to maintain consistent color.

When finished, clean the rim and securely reseal the container by tapping the lid evenly into place with a rubber mallet. Store the product in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and heat.

The wood must be completely dry before application. Apply Sundance Stain Sealers when the air and surface temperatures are between 45°F and 95°F.

Check the forecast before beginning and avoid applying while rain is falling or when heavy rain is expected before the product has had sufficient time to penetrate. Covered or heavily shaded surfaces may require additional drying time because they receive less sunlight and airflow.

Once applied to dry wood, Sundance Stain Sealers begin penetrating and repelling water. The recommended setup time before heavy rain depends on the product:

• DECK*1 COAT: Approximately 3 to 4 hours
• LOG*1 COAT: Approximately 2 to 3 hours
• THERMAL*1 COAT: Approximately 1 hour

Heavy rain may occasionally cause minor water spots. Allow the surface to dry completely before evaluating it. Many spots will disappear naturally during curing.

For DECK*1 COAT, remaining rain spots may be lightly back-rolled with a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and DECK*1 COAT. Do not perform unnecessary touch-ups or add a heavy second application.

A darker initial appearance is normal. The final wood tone varies according to the wood species, age, porosity, condition, existing coloration, and amount of product absorbed.

Older or more weathered wood may retain more product and initially appear darker. The finish will naturally lighten as it cures and receives sun exposure. Initial differences in color or absorption generally become less noticeable over the following 30 to 60 days.

Because every piece of wood reacts differently, website photographs and samples should be treated as general representations rather than exact color guarantees.

No. Avoid immediately touching up lighter areas or adding more product. Different portions of the wood absorb and cure at different rates.

Dense knots and areas receiving greater sun exposure may lighten sooner, while shaded or more porous areas may remain darker longer. Allow the finish to complete its normal curing process before evaluating the final appearance.

Repeated touch-ups can add excess product and create darker, sticky, or uneven areas. Give the surface at least 30 days to begin evening out naturally.

Drying time depends on the product, weather, airflow, sunlight, wood porosity, and amount applied.

DECK*1 COAT and LOG*1 COAT: These heavier formulas generally require approximately 24 to 48 hours to dry. Vertical LOG*1 COAT surfaces may dry at different rates depending on sun exposure, airflow, and how much product the wood absorbs.

For decks treated with DECK*1 COAT:

• After approximately 24 hours: Carefully walk on the surface while avoiding any damp areas. If puddles or wet areas remain, lightly wipe away the excess.
• After approximately 48 hours: Normal foot traffic may resume and outdoor furniture can generally be returned.
• Covered or screened porches: Allow approximately 72 hours because reduced sunlight and airflow can slow drying.

THERMAL*1 COAT dries considerably faster when applied correctly. Any product that has not penetrated within approximately 5 to 10 minutes should be lightly wiped away.

For the first few weeks after treating a deck, use an entry mat before walking indoors to prevent minor residue from being tracked into the house.